The purpose of this study, is to assess climbing performance metrics that include max strength testing on a rock climbing hangboard, maximum grip strength, assessment of pain and function using the DASH (disability of the arm, shoulder and hand), and maximum flexor strength and maximum extensor strength in climbers who perform a traditional finger training protocol compared to climbers who train both traditional flexor training protocol and extensor tendons.
Hand, forearm strength, and endurance are highly important elements in elite climbers. Constant training is essential, e.g. eccentric-concentric training of finger flexors. Climbers have traditionally trained finger flexor strength for climbing performance, however to our knowledge, no formal protocol exists for training extensor tendons. In a study performed by Devise, finger flexor to extensor strength ratios were found to be 3:1 in non-climbers. In experienced or elite climbers however, the average ratio was 6:1 and as high as 9:1. Upper extremity injuries are most common in rock climbers, with finger injuries being most prevalent. Pulley injuries, consisting of rupture of the A2 or A4 annular pulleys are the most common type of injury. Other finger injuries include tenosynovitis of the flexor tendons, as well as lumbrical muscle tears. The coordinated action of flexor and extensor tendons allows for a wide range of hand movements, including grasping, gripping, and releasing objects, as well as intricate finger movements. The pulleys along the tendons (annular and cruciate) act as fulcrums, increasing the mechanical advantage of the tendons and allowing for efficient flexion. Damage to either flexor or extensor tendons can lead to significant loss of hand function. The purpose of our study, is to assess climbing performance metrics that include max strength testing on a rock climbing hangboard, maximum grip strength, assessment of pain and function using the DASH (disability of the arm, shoulder and hand), and maximum flexor strength and maximum extensor strength in climbers who perform a traditional finger training protocol compared to climbers who train both traditional flexor training protocol and extensor tendons.
Study Type
INTERVENTIONAL
Allocation
RANDOMIZED
Purpose
OTHER
Masking
NONE
Enrollment
36
A structured finger flexor strength training protocol performed on a climbing hangboard at 70% of maximal finger flexion strength. Training consists of 5 seconds of isometric loading followed by 5 seconds of rest for 6 repetitions per set, across 6 sets with 3 minutes rest between sets. Training is performed twice weekly for six weeks following a standardized upper extremity warm-up.
A structured finger extensor tendon training protocol performed at 70% of maximal finger extension strength using isometric loading. This intervention will be in addition to performing the Finger Flexor Protocol. Training consists of 30-second isometric contractions with 3 minutes of rest between sets for a total of 6 sets per hand. Training is performed twice weekly for six weeks and is completed during rest periods of the finger flexor training protocol
Mazamas
Portland, Oregon, United States
Maximal Finger Extension Strength (MES)
Maximum isometric finger extension force for digits 2-5 measured using a VALD strain gauge system with finger loops positioned over the middle phalanx. Three 5-second trials per hand with 20 seconds rest; best of three recorded for each hand.
Time frame: Baseline (pre-training), 3 weeks, and 7 weeks (post-training)
Maximal Finger Flexion Strength (MFS) on Hangboard
Maximal added load (or total load) for a 7-second hang on a 30 mm hangboard edge using a standardized half/open crimp position. Load increased until participant cannot maintain the full 7 seconds; maximal successful load recorded.
Time frame: Baseline (pre-training), 3 weeks, and 7 weeks (post-training)
Finger Stamina and Endurance /Time Under Tension (TUT) at 80% of MFS
Stamina assessed as total time under tension while maintaining 80% of calculated maximal finger flexion strength using a Tindeq device and a 20 mm fingerblock. Endurance will be measured by calculating critical force at the completion of the test. Participants alternate 7-second work and 3-second rest cycles while attempting to maintain 80% target force for as many repetitions as possible to calculate stamina (up to 24 cycles). Critical Force will be calculated for each hand at completion of 24 cycles to measure endurance.
Time frame: Baseline, 3 weeks, and 7 weeks
Disabilities of the Arm, Shoulder and Hand (DASH) Score
Self-reported upper extremity disability and symptoms using the Disabilities of the Arm, Shoulder and Hand (DASH) questionnaire, a 30-item validated instrument. Each item is scored from 1 (no difficulty/no symptoms) to 5 (unable to perform activity/severe symptoms). The final score is calculated using the standardized formula and converted to a scale ranging from 0 to 100, where: 0 = no disability 100 = most severe disability Higher scores indicate worse upper extremity function.
Time frame: Baseline, 3 weeks, and 7 weeks
This platform is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult a qualified healthcare professional.
Finger Flexion-to-Extension Strength Ratio
Ratio calculated from maximal finger flexion strength (hangboard test) divided by maximal finger extension strength (VALD test), calculated for each hand.
Time frame: Baseline, 3 weeks, and 7 weeks